Not many waterfalls move enough volume to dazzle year round. But at Michigan’s Tahquamenon Falls State Park, near Whitefish Point in the eastern U.P., the show goes on throughout each season. Visitors are perpetually awed, and amenities are open every day of the year.

Tahquamenon Falls is one of the largest falls east of the Mississippi River, second in size only to Niagara. The word “Tahquamenon” stems from the anomaly of the water and ice’s amber color. This unusual coloring is caused by the tannins being swept through the river from the cedar, spruce, and hemlock roots.

I had the privilege of snowshoeing through the old growth maple and beech forests to the Upper Falls this winter. But this wasn’t just any hike through the woods. Our group was led by the State Park’s top notch park interpreter, Theresa Neal.

She could have led us down the groomed path, but that would have taken the adventure out of it. Instead, she weaved us through the trees.

“This is what real snowshoeing is,” she said. “You can go anywhere over the fallen trees. You don’t need a path.”

Along the way, she even gave members of our group the opportunity to break trail.

Theresa is also in the Education Services Department at the State Park, so she was able to explain what was happening above and below the snow. She pointed out the pileated woodpecker holes and told us how they find bugs in the trees. She also taught us that there is a small air gap between the ground and the snow where mice and other critters can travel around and look for food.

Once we got past a thick grove of hemlock trees, we began to hear the thunder of the falls. We walked up to the first overlook. The Upper Falls were frozen, except for a gap 15 feet across the main chute, where the water poured forcefully. A bit further down, we came to the second overlook to the Upper Falls. Definitely a photo op.

We were all antsy to see if we would get even closer. Oh, yes. We trekked further along the trail to the top of a staircase. This descended to a deck about 50 feet above the Tahquamenon River, where the falls plummeted. Nearly 100 steps to the bottom, we could hear the surging water loud and clear.

“It’s really loud down here in the spring,” Theresa commented. “You can’t even hear someone talking to you.”

The river itself was completely frozen except for a few yards above and below the rushing water. Ice covered the river, hugged the falls, and decorated the canyon walls.

Though U.P. waterfalls usually give their most robust performances during the spring runoff, Tahquamenon Falls surrounded us with blue, green, clear, and brown ice that day. The winter falls definitely have their perks.

To finish off the loop, we headed back to the parking area where the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery and Pub sits at Camp 33. All but two acres of this property were sold to the State Park by the current owner’s grandfather in the late 1900s. Since the two acres are private, it is legal (and fortunate) for them to brew craft beer and cook gourmet food.

Gourmet food? I couldn’t believe it myself, but Chef David at the Pub made me a believer. His conviction is that cooking is more than opening boxes of prepackaged food. He gets fresh whitefish from the frigid waters of Lake Superior and creates his own recipes throughout the menu. He even makes his own hot cocoa, a favorite among our group.

But don’t stop at the drinks. Try their homemade pasty, fresh whitefish, one of many shrimp dishes, or the Chef’s favorite, bacon-wrapped filet mignon.

Once you snowshoe to the falls, cross-country ski the groomed loops, winter camp, or snowmobile in from a neighboring town, your tummy will be ready for a filling, and Chef David will exceed your expectations.

If you still believe winter is no time for waterfalls, see it for yourself. Tahquamenon Falls, with its flowing cascades, natural ice sculptures, and great tour guides will have you returning with more friends each winter.

Images by Amanda Wais